More skin problems come from over-cleansing than under-cleansing. The instinct is that cleaner is better, and past a certain point the opposite is true.
The target
Skin that feels comfortable afterwards — not tight, not squeaky.
That squeaky feeling people associate with cleanliness is the sound of a stripped barrier. It means the cleanser removed not just dirt and makeup but the lipids that hold water in.
Frequency
Evening: yes, properly. This is the cleanse that matters — makeup, sunscreen, and the day's accumulation.
Morning: lightly, or not at all. Your face has been on a clean pillow for eight hours. Oily skin usually benefits from a light cleanse; dry and sensitive skin often does better with water alone.
Never more than twice. A third wash because your skin feels oily is how you get skin that produces more oil.
Water temperature
Lukewarm. Hot water strips lipids and increases redness; cold water does not "close pores", which do not open and close.
The method
- Wet the face with lukewarm water
- Warm the cleanser between your palms first — it spreads more evenly
- Massage for about thirty seconds, with fingertips, in gentle circles. Not longer, and not with a brush or washcloth
- Rinse thoroughly. Residue is a common cause of irritation and dullness. Pay attention to the hairline and jaw
- Pat dry with a clean towel. Do not rub
- Moisturise within a minute, while skin is still slightly damp
That last point does more for hydration than most serums.
Choosing a cleanser
- Oily / combination — gentle gel
- Normal — foam or mild gel
- Dry — cleansing milk or cream, non-foaming
- Sensitive — cleansing milk, no fragrance
If it leaves you tight, it is wrong for you regardless of what it cost.
When one pass is not enough
If you wear makeup or sunscreen, one cleanse rarely removes it. Two steps — a remover or milk first, then your cleanser — is more thorough and gentler than scrubbing once with something strong.
What to skip
Cleansing brushes, washcloths, daily scrubs, and anything that makes the skin feel scoured. All of them damage the barrier faster than they clean.
For product formats, see the cleanser guide.