Skin that suddenly stings at products it tolerated last month is usually not sensitive by nature. It is sensitised — the barrier is damaged, and things that should stay outside are getting in.
The distinction matters, because sensitised skin recovers.
Sensitive versus sensitised
Sensitive is a trait. Lifelong, consistent, often runs in families. Managed rather than cured.
Sensitised is a state. It appeared recently, it has a cause, and it goes away.
If your skin was fine a year ago and is reactive now, it is almost certainly the second.
What causes it
Nearly always the routine:
- Too many actives, or several introduced at once
- Over-exfoliating — the most common single cause
- Foaming or stripping cleansers
- Constant product changes
- Chasing a "glass skin" routine of eight steps
- Aggressive professional treatments too frequently
Environmental factors — cold wind, central heating, hard water — contribute but rarely cause it alone.
How to recognise it
- Stinging on application of things that used to be fine
- Redness that lingers
- Tightness that moisturiser does not fix
- Rough patches on otherwise normal skin
- New reactions to fragrance
- Skin that looks shiny in a tight, taut way rather than an oily one
The reset
This is the part people find hard, because it involves doing less.
For at least two to four weeks:
- Stop all actives. Retinoids, acids, vitamin C, everything
- Stop all exfoliation. Physical and chemical
- Use a gentle cleanser only, once a day in the evening, water in the morning
- A simple moisturiser with few ingredients, no fragrance
- Sunscreen, since damaged skin is more vulnerable
- Add nothing new. Not a soothing serum, not a barrier cream you read about
The urge to add something calming is strong and usually counter-productive. Subtraction is the treatment.
Reintroducing
Once skin is comfortable — no stinging, no redness, normal texture — bring actives back one at a time, twice a week, with two weeks between additions.
Most people find they do not need everything they were using.
When it is not this
If irritation persists after a month of a minimal routine, or comes with itching, flaking patches, or visible vessels, that may be rosacea, eczema or dermatitis. Those are dermatological conditions, and a gentler cream is not the answer.
For a minimal routine to reset to, see the skincare section.