Sensitive skin is not a fifth type alongside dry, oily, combination and normal. It is a reactivity that sits on top of whichever of those you have — so a sensitive routine is your type's routine, made gentler and more cautious.

The two rules that matter most

One new product at a time. Introduce nothing else for two weeks. If something reacts, you need to know which thing it was, and a routine changed wholesale tells you nothing.

Patch test. Inner forearm or behind the ear, for a few days, before it goes near your face. Tedious, and considerably less tedious than a fortnight of irritation.

Building the routine

Cleansing: non-foaming. Cleansing milks and cream cleansers, lukewarm water, no washcloths or brushes. Morning water-only is often the better choice.

Moisturising: simple formulas, fewer ingredients. Barrier-supporting rather than active.

Sun protection: essential, and mineral filters are often better tolerated than chemical ones. Test carefully — this is the product people most often react to.

Exfoliation: rarely, or not at all. Sensitive skin generally does not need it, and it is the fastest way to provoke a flare.

What commonly provokes it

  • Fragrance, including natural essential oils
  • Alcohol-heavy toners
  • Physical scrubs
  • Strong actives, especially several at once
  • Hot water and long showers
  • Sudden temperature changes
  • Doing too much at once — the most common cause of all

When skin is currently irritated

Stop everything except a gentle cleanser and a plain moisturiser. No actives, no exfoliation, no new products, for at least two weeks.

The instinct is to add something soothing. Usually the right move is to subtract until the skin settles, then reintroduce one item at a time.

The distinction worth making

Sensitive is a trait — your skin reacts more readily than most.

Sensitised is a state — your barrier is damaged, usually by over-cleansing, over-exfoliating or too many actives. It looks the same and it recovers with rest.

Most people who describe themselves as sensitive are sensitised, and a boring routine for a month resolves it.

When it is medical

Persistent redness, visible vessels, burning, or patches that flake and itch may be rosacea, eczema or dermatitis — conditions that need a dermatologist rather than a gentler cream.

For type-specific routines, see the skincare section.